The Big Island of Hawaii has one main highway that takes you around the circumfrance of the island, staying near the coastline except in one spot in the Southeast where a volcano gets in the way. You can see a map here. The fastest you can ever go on this road is, I think 50mph, slowing down to 35mph where the road is especially curvy, and 25mph when going through cities. So it takes oh, maybe four or five hours to go totally around the island.
We stayed near the Punalu’u black sands beach, which you can sort of see on the map if you click on it to enlarge it. It’s just to the right of the Southern tip of the island. It was about an hour to Hilo, 90 minutes to Kailua Kona, and 10 miles from nowhere. Perfect.
If you look at the southernmost tip of the island, you’ll see that from the highway is an offshoot road marked “Ka Lee (South Point).” South Point is the southernmost point of the United States. The street marked is a 12 mile long country road which, if memory serves, becomes a dirt road after about six miles. At first there are a few farm houses along the road, then it becomes pasture with a few cows, and then it becomes a mixture of sand, volcanic rock, and remnants of old pastures.
At the end of this road is a steep cliff where locals toss out a fishing line. Off of this is a jeep trail that is navigable with 4WD and enough clearance. Four (or so) miles down a trail that skirts the coastline is a cliff overlooking a green sand beach and the most surreal turquoise water I’ve ever seen. I know because we walked down that trail. We didn’t trek down the path along the cliff and swim in the water, as it looked pretty treacherous for a pregnant chick, but I didn’t need to – seeing it was enough.
It wasn’t really what I’d call a hike because it was pretty flat. But we did need to carry a lot of water and some food, since I can’t risk getting either dehydrated or hungry during exercise. It was a beautiful day when we did this. Maybe 80 degrees, but the trade winds off the ocean kept away the humidity.
There is something sacred about this place (and much of the Big Island). I felt that I was walking on land that hadn’t been touched in a few hundred years. However, that was not the case. Not only did we see a dozen or so other hikers, but also several 4WD vehicles. Most of the vehicles we saw were Jeeps, and probably rented, as they were new and clean. Nobody keeps a Jeep clean for long.
On the way back, though, we saw a big lifted truck with a logo from a Hilo electric company on the sided. Inside were a couple of muscular young men with shaved heads and apparently more tattoos then bare skin. The driver slowed down to chat with Barry for a moment. “You have a good hike?” Yup, great. “You make it to the end?” Yup. Then he turned to me and pointed at my tummy. “You. You got water?” Yes, thanks, I appreciate that. He gave me a thumbs up, then he drove off.